A Weekend in Quebec City

How is this place even real? That was the thought that kept going through my head every time I turned a corner while walking around in Quebec City for the first time. How did I wake up in my house, get on a domestic flight in Toronto and less than two hours later find myself wandering down cobble stoned roads worn smooth over the centuries, courtyards with tiny tables where people sipped coffee and smoked cigarettes, where four hundred year old churches faced quiet squares, and literally every corner revealed another mind-bogglingly charming streetscape that I had to stop and gape at. How is this place even real? And, then, of course, the inevitable thought that always comes up when I travel… maybe I should move here!

Quebec City is without a doubt one of the prettiest places I’ve ever visited. It’s a gorgeous little microcosm of France right here in Canada and one of the oldest cities in North America, founded in 1608 by the legendary explorer Samuel de Champlain. The historic core, Old Quebec, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the oldest walled city in North America. It feels a bit like stepping back in time because the architecture is so old and so well preserved. You feel like you’ve actually landed in France and left Canada completely. Which, I suppose, is what people enjoy about it.

The city is separated by a lower town, located at sea level, and the upper town, which is the middle of all the action, but it is easy to get between the two. If you’re staying in Old Quebec, you really don’t need a car because it’s a very walkable and small city, and parking would be a nightmare. We took a taxi from the airport to town, and walked everywhere. That said, wear good walking shoes because there are a lot of steps to go up and down.

Quebec City has many landmarks, but the imposing Château Frontenac is undoubtedly the city’s penultimate icon and one of the most famous hotels in the country. (We didn’t stay there – ha! It was beyond the budget. Maybe one day.)

Sitting in a sidewalk cafe and people watching is a must in the pedestrian zones.

While in QC, be sure to try the classic Québécois cuisine—dishes like poutine, tourtière, and maple-based desserts. Every single meal we ate was absolutely fantastic; you know the French don’t f*** around when it comes to food.

Other than wandering around the old town sighing with pleasure, a good day trip is to visit the very impressive Montmorency Falls (Parc de la Chute-Montmorency). It was an easy bus ride from the city to the waterfall parking lot that took about 25 minutes. The falls are the last stop so it’s impossible to get lost. Montmorency Falls is actually taller than Niagara Falls, though smaller in terms of water flow and width. What’s awesome about the falls is the suspension bridge that you can cross over, and then the crazy steps that criss cross the mountain to get back down. Again – wear good shoes! After reaching the bottom, you can take the cable car back up to the top to get back to the bus terminal.

So what about “the French” thing? How much French do you need to get around? Honestly, I’d say none, if you’re staying in the old town. Tourism is a huge industry so you won’t have any problem ordering in restaurants or shopping as most of the staff are bilingual. But a little French goes a long way. And honestly, I don’t blame French Canadians for wanting to protect this tiny but mighty stronghold of French culture. A lot of Canadians think this is unfair or exclusionary, but I have to admit… if I was born and bred in Quebec City, I’d probably want it to stay how it is too.

After all… imagine how different Canada would look today is France had not lost the war?

Say something nah!